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New Potato Potato-Salad

May 15, 2015 By Lauren

potatosalad

It’s mid-May and Summer is already afoot:

Dandelions have gone to seed, lilac’s in bloom, strawberries redden and branches grow greener and evenings stretch longer and submerge us in blue.

These blue nights of late Spring and early Summer–described so beautifully by Joan Didion in her memoir— always invoke major nostalgia for me.  Nostalgia for past Summers and the places I spent them in and the people I spent them with; and even, oddly enough, for this coming Summer–which I think about so often that it sometimes feels as if it’s already gone.

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Lately, I’ve been getting ahead of myself.  All the growth of this season brings a sense of boundlessness, infinite possibilities.  There’s so much space within these blue nights and I find myself wavering between projecting too far into the future and retracing the past, often missing the little details of the present moment.

The little details which become currency for nostalgia, what is cherished, held close: the nacho dinners Emulee and I would make after a long, hot day of weeding on the farm,  salted hakurei turnips by the lake, a pickled egg and a glass of cider at Tandem’s counter, the ride-home with Kasia after symphony-in-the-park with reggae turned up and windows rolled down, light scattered across a patch of tall nettles, the knick-knack shelf in my grandma Stella’s living room, a jelly doughnut cut in half, home-made potato salad in a yellow bowl.

My nostalgia for the past reminds me that while attending to the future is undoubtedly important, engaging in the present is vital, as these are the moments, the little details that give, dare I say, meaning to our days.

shallots parsley

Last Sunday, some peonies really drove that message home.  One of my favorite flowers, I realized I was taking home the first bunch of the season and quite possibly the last one.  Their flowering season is short.  If I’d been looking too far ahead–toward this coming Summer–or too far behind, I might have missed them altogether.

Like I might have missed these first harvest, or new, potatoes of late Spring.

honey/mustard dressing

This new potato potato-salad is based on the memory of my grandma’s potato salad–the one in the yellow bowl.  It isn’t her recipe–she used mayonnaise and celery and sometimes apple in hers–but it reminds me of her and the summers we shared.

In French new potatoes are called delicatesses, a fitting name for these earthy-sweet and tender tubers.  A handful of red-skins, some shallots, some sage, a whole fistful of parsley and a tangy-sweet dressing make a salad that is, in my opinion, the perfect compliment to these extended twilight hours and all the space for picnics by the lake, BBQs in the yard, and new found little details they provide.

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New Potato-Salad

Ingredients

  • For the salad
  • 1 kilo potatoes, mix new + red-skin
  • 1/2 bunch parsley, minced
  • handful fresh sage, minced
  • 2 shallots, minced
  • pinch salt
  • For the dressing
  • 1/2 olive oil
  • 1/4 cup apple cider vinegar
  • 2 tablespoons mustard
  • 1 tablespoon honey
  • pinch salt

Directions

  1. Scrub potatoes and chop into bite-sized pieces (in half for new potatoes, in quarters for red-skins). Place into large pot and cover with cold water. Add pinch of salt and place on stove on high-heat. Once water is boiling, reduce heat and let potatoes simmer for 15 minutes, or until tender. Drain and rinse in cold water.
  2. While potatoes are boiling, chop shallots and herbs and place in large mixing bowl. Make dressing by adding all ingredients to a jar, sealing and shaking like a wild-wo/man or until emulsified.
  3. As soon as you've drained and rinsed your potatoes, add them to the mixing bowl and pour over the dressing. (It's important to pour the dressing on while the potatoes are still warm). Mix everything together. Serve right away for the warm version or cover and keep in the fridge overnight for the cold-version.

Keeps in the fridge for 3-4 days, if well-sealed.

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Mes amis de Suisse:

Ce Samedi à Plainpalais il y a un évènement Art Sans RDV –c’est une expérience immersive à la rencontre de la plaine de Plainpalais et des oeuvres d’art qui l’habitent.  À 19h30 je préparerai le buffet pour l’inauguration de leur application mobile: des nori-rolls avec riz noir et pesto d’ortie/des betteraves/des carottes et des macarons de noix de coco et des amandes.

J’espere vous voir là-bas!

RDV

Filed Under: Plant, Recipes, Seasons, Sides, Spring, Vegetable Tagged With: delicatesse, newpotatoes, potatoes, recipe, salads, simple, spring, wapf

(Grand-père) Loulou’s Smoked Trout & Endive Salad

March 15, 2015 By Lauren

fera

Loulou says:

My grand-père Loulou used to say, “Une année c’est comme une glace à l’eau, ça fond vite.” (A year is like a popsicle, it melts quickly). 

Twice a week, (the original) Loulou was making my lunch.  It was like an institution.  I was the last of the grand-children, so he was already well-trained and already nostalgic, I think, about ending this cycle with me.  Everything was well-organized–the timing to go to the farmer’s market, the butcher, the bakery for my sweet.  Every cousin was always saying the same thing after every meal, “Merci Loulou, c’était très bon.” Loulou was always eating standing up, close to his oven–as if he were being punished.  Cooking seemed something very serious to me, at this time.  Once, I had to stay because I wasn’t eating my salad, so finally I kept my salad under my tongue and went to the bathroom to spit it out.

But all that’s just surface.  Loulou & I were best friends. That’s true. My after-school snack was a time when our generational gap was disappearing. 

I often go through his recipe book and this salad was the first thing I made that I had never tried from him.  That’s what makes it so special to me.  It feels like discovering something for him–something he had meant to make, but never got around to–it feels, in a way, like keeping his spirit alive. 

It’s a good seasonal salad because it uses the first radishes of the Spring, the last apples of the Fall, smoked trout from the Winter, and the bitter endives that see us from Winter to Spring.

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(The young) Loulou introduced this salad to me last Winter in the mountains, using just endives, an apple and this yoghurt-y, mustard-y dressing.  It was bitter and sweet, tart, creamy and crunchy, and I remember him saying, “You usually make it with trout.”

trout

Trout!  One of those foods I enjoy when it’s presented to me, but hardly ever seem to seek out.  Before making this salad this Saturday, even after seven-months of living alongside the biggest lake in (Western) Europe, I’d yet to really explore all the trout & trout-like (we used the unique-to-these-Alpine-climes white-fish fera in our version) possibilities here.  The smokiness of the fish is a truly lovely addition and takes this salad to next-level, all-you-need-for-your-picnic-lunch status, for sure.

I’ve finally tried this salad (the original) Loulou’s way, after a year (that did, indeed, go by as quickly as a melting fruit bar) of making it the way (the young) Loulou introduced it to me.

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And this is what’s special to me–how recipes can evolve as they’re passed from generation to generation, and how they can keep the spirit of a person, a connection or a conversation between two people alive.

Merci Loulou, c’était tres bon!

dressing

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(Grand-père) Loulou’s Smoked Trout & Endive Salad

Sometimes I feel like the descriptor "sustainably caught" is simplifying something that is, in fact, quite complicated. Aquaculture (or fish farms) can be (but are not always!) problematic and the consumption of wild, line-caught fish can be linked to aquaculture's (not always responsible) expansion. I'm not sure what the right answer is (and would love to hear your thoughts on the matter!), but we live in a region where line-caught lake fish are a-plenty so we chose some wild, line-caught fera for our version of this salad. Feel free to make adjustments (substituting roast chicken for fish, for example) according to what's available in your region.

Ingredients

  • 3 small endives, chopped
  • 1/2 sweet apple, diced
  • 2 handfuls radishes, chopped in half
  • 1/2 fillet of smoked trout or another smoked white-fish, sliced in small pieces
  • 4 tablespoons yogurt
  • 2 teaspoons grainy mustard
  • 4 tablespoons olive oil
  • juice of 1 lemon
  • salt & pepper

Directions

  1. Chop endives, apple, and radishes and place in large salad bowl.
  2. Slice fish in small, bite-able pieces and add to bowl.
  3. Mix yogurt, mustard, oil, lemon and salt and pepper in a jar and shake until emulsified.
  4. Pour over salad, mix and enjoy.
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Filed Under: Animal, Dinner, Fish, Lunch, Recipes, Seasons, Spring Tagged With: apples, dinner, endives, lunch, picnic, radishes, salad, simple, smokedtrout, spring

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