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Spring-time Torshi for Grandma Mary

March 27, 2015 By Lauren

I’m one-half first-generation American on my father’s side which means that my father’s an immigrant and I, at least by one-half, am an immigrant’s daughter.

I’ve been thinking about that a lot lately, what that has come to mean for me here.

vegfortorshi

It’s been nearly seven months since I moved to Switzerland, seven months since I filled two suitcases with the majority of my things, seven months since I boarded a plane with the intention of staying put, settling down in an entirely new country, a country that I will, someday I reckon, call home, or at least a second one.

Unlike my father, I’m an ex-pat here not an immigrant.  This distinction has always caused eye-rolling on my part, but the difference, as far as I’ve seen, is that I can always go home.

It’s been nearly fifty-four years since my father, let’s call him (as those in his inner-circle [and outer-circle, come to think of it] do) Doc, left his first home.  Forty-nine since he emigrated to the U.S., by way of Israel.  Thirty-three since he moved from NYC to metro-Detroit, his fourth home.

packjar

When people ask me where my last name is from and I say Iraq there’s often a moment: of surprise, of intrigue, of brow-raising, “oh!”.  My heritage is Jewish and Christian, not Muslim, and I suppose I look different (and I am, after all, one-half Eastern European on my mom’s side) than the image of Iraqis many people have in their heads .

I suppose the Iraq of my grand-parent’s generation looked a lot different than the image of Iraq I’ve had shelled in my head.  I’ve had glimpses of this Iraq, from photo albums, Doc’s recollections; it exists for me, but it’s scattered, dispersed between the covers of newspapers, the footage on the news.

turnipbeet

I’ve been thinking of my grand-parents a lot, lately, and how radically their lives changed.  My grandmother was around my age when she came to the U.S.  I didn’t get to know her too well (she passed on when I was young), but I’ve been thinking about her and how her life took her across the world around the same time that mine has.

This week, I’m making a recipe for her, inspired by her to connect with her and my memories of what we shared.

turnipbeetjar

Mary, born in Baghdad, Iraq, American immigrant, devoted Catholic, mother of four.  Do these details really describe who you were?

I have other artifacts, too: a tape-recording of meditative breathing–Som/Om, Som/Om–, an aerobics tape atop your VCR, a glass-jar filled with matchbooks from the places you’d been, a carving of a man and woman intertwined in an embrace on your bed-side-table that would make a nine-year-old me turn pink.  An olive-wood rosary, icons of the Virgin Mother.  You were deeply religious, but not in the disciplinarian, god-fearing way.  More in a close-to-god (I’d even venture goddess, as your icon of choice was a woman) and his/her love kind of way.

picklejardeuxtorshione

Mostly, I remember you through food.  The grape-leaves we grew for you, for dolma, beneath the deck of our first home, that sprawling suburb with similarly-drawn houses facing each other across green and marshy lawn.  Your similarly green tabouli, drenched in lemon, always in the same banded-glass bowl that I often ate straight-out-of, with a big soup spoon.  Kibbeh–olive-oil, cinnamon, salt, the color of soil–which you’d press flat and slice like a pie.  A yellow onion, that you’d bite into like an apple.

A big jar of torshi on your fridge-door’s shelf.

torshitwo

Torshi is the word you can use for pickles from tables in the Balkans to those in the Hindu Kush.  Recipes differ, but the principle is the same–something preserved, made sour (with salt through lacto-fermentation, or with vinegar) for a tangy addition to your meal.

In Chinese medicine, they say the sour taste is yin, cooling, gathering, absorbent, most active in the liver, strengthening for weakened lungs, “proper food” for the “heartmind.”  It organizes scattered mental patterns, collects and holds together what has been dispersed.  (Pitchford, 312).

Mary was the daughter of an Armenian orphan, a man whose parents had been killed in the genocide.  He grew up in the company of Iraqi Christians–or Chaldeans–and married one.  Mary met my Gidu (grandpa in Arabic), a Jewish man, and fell in love.  This love would eventually cast them out from their home in Iraq, from Israel (where the Jewishness of the family was called into question), to a place where they could find (at that time) acceptance: the U.S.

Perhaps that is why, as immigrants, ex-pats, immigrants-daughters or grand-daughters or even great-great-granddaughters, we can gravitate toward the sour.  A taste to gather, to collect, to hold together what has been dispersed, to bring us together.

Mary’s torshi was made with cauliflower, carrots, cucumbers and cabbage.  I used the first turnips and radishes of Spring in my versions.  A bright sash of color for a pale-green early Spring.

torshitwoways

Print
Spring-time Torshi, 2 Ways

Ingredients

    Turnips + 1/8 Beet (Fuschia)
  • Bunch of turnips, sliced thin
  • 1/8 of a small beet, sliced thin
  • 1.5 tablespoons course sea-salt
  • De-chlorinated water
  • And/Or
  • Turnips + Radishes + Black Radish (Carnelian)
  • Bunch of radishes, sliced thin
  • Handful of turnips, sliced thin
  • 1 small black radish, sliced thin
  • 1.5 tablespoons course sea-salt
  • De-chlorinated water

Directions

  1. Sterilize a pint-sized glass jar by filling it with boiling water. Wait a few minutes, then drain. Fill with cold water to cool glass, then drain again.
  2. Press slices of vegetables into jar until it's full. Add salt. Pour cold, de-chlorinated water (Note: You can de-chlorinate your water by letting it stand for at least 30 minutes) until it covers vegetables. Seal with lid.

Let ferment in cool, dry place for at least 3 days and up to many months. After opening, store in fridge.

3.1

 

References:
Pitchford, Paul. Healing with Whole Foods. Berkeley: North Atlantic Books, 1993, 2002.

Filed Under: Ferments, Recipes, Seasons, Sides, Spring Tagged With: beets, condiments, lactoferments, pickles, probiotics, radishes, spring, torshi, turnips

Raw-Milk Yogurt

November 24, 2014 By Lauren

yoghurt

I love milk and I’m not ashamed to admit it.

While some health-minded folk may beg to differ, I still believe that milk, and I mean Milk with a capital “m”: full-fat, unpasteurized (raw, alive), and brimming with all its inherent beneficial bacteria and enzymes, is a super-food. (For full milky manifesto, see here).

As raw milk is not only hard to find, but downright criminalized in most of the U.S., you can imagine my excitement when life swept me across the Atlantic to Switzerland – land of the pasture-grazing, mountain-side-roaming, behorned and, sometimes, beflowered cow. And you can imagine my disappointment when I found that, unless you’re living in a dairying village, the most widely accessible dairy foods—including butter and yogurt–have been pasteurized.

And while raw milk isn’t anywhere near illegal here, procuring it does require a bit of inventiveness.

The kind of inventiveness that found Lu & me, three buses and one long walk later, in the possession of a 10-liter plastic bucket filled to its brim with lait cru.  You’re probably wondering what would possess two people to purchase such a large quantity of such a perishable foodstuff all at once.  Well, quite simply, it was the smallest amount available. So what’s a couple to do when they want the benefits of raw milk in their lives but only have access to an impossible amount?  Make raw-milk yogurt, of course!

incubationyoghurts

Without pasteurization, the shelf life of a glass of milk is short—3-4 days, tops. This explains why, traditionally, dairy consumption revolved, not around fresh glass with cookies, but ferments: cultured butters, moldy cheeses, effervescent kefir, creamy yogurt, to name a few.

My first experience with homemade yogurt was, incidentally, in Greece. The process is simple: heat milk, add bacterial culture (or spoonful of bacteria-rich yogurt or starter) and let ferment in an incubator (or wrapped in sweaters or towels as pictured) for four-eight hours. Our notion of yogurt is much thicker, much firmer than, for example, than the dahi of India because we heat our milk past the point of pasteurization in the process.  While this produces a denser, creamier product, it also destroys all the raw-some qualities of the milk.

It’s possible to make yogurt with milk that is still, technically, raw.  Raw-milk yogurt’s consistency is somewhere between drinkable and eatable. We’ve been spreading ours on pancakes, making bircher muesli (overnight oats), and pouring it in mugs over a spoonful of turmeric and honey. It will keep in your fridge for weeks if well-sealed.

strain

Raw-Milk Yogurt

#1. Heat milk to 110-115F.   If you don’t have a kitchen thermometer, this is roughly halfway to boiling. (The milk should be warm, not at all hot).

Make sure to constantly stir, as any scorching at the bottom will affect the consistency of your yogurt.

#2. While milk is heating, sterilize glass jars by pouring boiling water into them.

Let water sit in the jars until milk is ready for transfer, as you want them to be warm for best fermentation results.

#3.   Pour milk into warmed jars, leaving a bit of room at the top. Add spoonful of yogurt from either a yogurt starter or a commercially produced yogurt with live-bacteria cultures and stir.

If you’re using bacteria from a commercially produced yogurt, you will have to continue to do so every time you make yogurt (meaning, you can’t just use a spoonful from your last batch). If you’re able to find a starter, you’ll be able to use last batch spoons every time.

#4. Seal and wrap in sweaters or towels or use an incubator, if you have one (fancy!). Place near a heater.

#5. Ferment from 4-8 hours. Experiment with the time! Some recipes call for ferments as long as 24-hours. I usually let it ferment overnight.

#6. You just made yogurt! Enjoy! Or:

  1. If you’d like your yogurt to be a bit thicker, and if you’d like some whey (for, perhaps, some lacto-fermented veggies) you can strain your yogurt.
  2. Line a bowl with some cheesecloth and pour your yogurt into the cloth. Fasten cloth and let hang over an empty bowl for two or so hours. Voila: thicker yogurt!
  3. The contents in your bowl are whey—you can store this in your fridge for up to a week and in the freezer for three months.

squeezing

hanging

Filed Under: Ferments, Kitchen Essentials, Recipes, Sides Tagged With: dairy, probiotics, rawmilk, wapf, yogurt

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