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Meat Monday: Kibbeh Bil Sanieh + Nostalgic Food

July 25, 2016 By Lauren

pine nuts

Lately, I’ve been thinking a lot about nostalgic food, what it means when we eat something that’s linked to a cultural experience, a specific place or person.

There’s this study that was conducted more than 10 years ago that I often turn back to. In essence, it tested the nutritive value of nostalgia, of pleasure in food, in eating.

A group of Swedish women and a group of Thai women were given two meals (one, traditionally Swedish, the other traditionally Thai) with the same nutritional content of iron and then tested to see how much iron they’d absorbed from each meal.

This study was conducted when the idea that “a calorie is a calorie” was huge (which I suppose, in some circles, still is), and I imagine that their findings were, at the time, a revelation.  The Swedish women absorbed only half the amount of iron from the Thai meal as the Thai women and vice versa.

But it didn’t end there.  Both meals were placed in a blender and each group was given a blended version of their traditional meal.  Once again, absorption rates were far lower than when they’d eaten the meal as they remembered it and when it was, most likely, beautiful (because can we all just admit that blended is not nearly as beautiful as un-blended [which is why all sorts of berries and bee pollen are added to the tops of smoothie bowls, yeah?]).

This study is still fascinating to me for 2 main reasons.

#1: Nostalgic foods, comfort foods do more than just nourish our weary souls; they increase the absorption of nutrients that nourish us in a very tangible way.

#2.  The lattice-crust, the edible wildflower, heck, even the parsley garnish.  These little touches that make our meal more beautiful also make our meal more nutritious.  Turns out there’s a deeper calling to make our food beautiful than impressing our dinner guests or instagram followers.  (That being said, I know this dish isn’t *technically* the most beautiful [it is essentially a meat-pie, after all], but the pine-nuts and sage-leaves and pretty pattern do help).

bahart meat kebbeoven

Which brings me to kibbeh, specifically kibbeh bil sanieh which is essentially meat and pine nuts in a meat and bulgur shell.  Kibbeh is an incredibly nostalgic food for me.  Growing up with an Iraqi grandmother she always seemed to have a pie plate of it in her fridge, which we often ate cold and with a side of torshi.

I don’t have my grandma’s recipe for kibbeh, sadly, but this version comes pretty close.  For those w/o deeper ties to middle eastern culture, perhaps you’ve tried other kinds of kibbeh — football shaped and fried seems to be the most ubiquitous –braise those in tomato sauce and you’ve got a traditional Iraqi preparation, though one I don’t ever remember my grandma making.

I’ve been wanting to recreate her version of kibbeh for a while now, as for me, it’s a perfect Summer food, when you want to reserve turning on your oven on for fruit pies and the like.  You can make it at the beginning of the week and you can keep it in the fridge and bring it along on picnics for days after (I’d say at least 3), or you can even freeze half of it for those Summer nights when a dinner-game-plan has fallen by the wayside.

kebbeh plate

Kibbeh Bil Sanieh

For the baharat (adapted slightly from Ottolenghi’s Jerusalem):

Ingredients:

  • 1 teaspoon coriander seeds
  • 1 small cinnamon stick, cut into shards
  • 1/2 teaspoon cloves
  • 2 teaspoons cumin seeds
  • 2 teaspoons cardamom puds
  • 1/2 whole nutmeg grated

Directions:

Grind everything together in a mortar and pestle or spice grinder.  Store in sealed glass jar.

For the dough:

Ingredients:

  • 1 and 1/2 cup bulgur wheat, soaked overnight and drained thoroughly the next day
  • 700g ground grass-fed beef
  • 2 large yellow onions, cubed
  • 2 tablespoons baharat
  • 1 teaspoon Celtic sea salt
  • handful of sage leaves

For the filling:

Ingredients:

  • knob ghee
  • 1 large yellow onion, minced superfine
  • 1/2 cup beef bone broth
  • 500g ground grass-fed beef
  • 1 tablespoon baharat
  • sprinkle Celtic sea salt
  • 1/2 cup pine-nuts

Directions:

  1. Make the dough first, as it should chill for at least 2 hours in the fridge.  Add cubed onions to a food processor and process until the onions start releasing their juices.  Add beef, baharat, salt and bulgur to processor and process until everything comes together in a pale-colored, paste-like dough.  Cover and chill in the fridge.
  2. On medium heat, toast the pine nuts until golden brown.
  3. While pine nuts are toasting, heat big skillet on medium-heat and melt ghee.  Add onion and pinch salt and let cook for a few minutes.
  4. Add beef, salt, bone broth and baharat and cook until everything is browned.
  5. Turn off heat and mix in pine-nuts, reserving a few for the topping.
  6. Set aside meat mixture and let cool.
  7. Start the crust:  separate your dough into two even halves.  Use a little bowl of cold water to dip your hands while molding the bottom crust (it will make it easier to shape the crust).
  8. Add filling.
  9. For the top crust: Grab little pieces of dough and mold into a ball.  Press the ball flat between your palms and place it atop the meat filling.  You’ll work like this for the top; almost like patchwork, patching the little flat pieces together until they completely cover the filling.
  10. Score your kibbeh — here is a lovely illustration.
  11. Press your thumb into the center of the pie down to the pan.  Add a little olive oil to a bowl and use a brush to make an oil-wash on the top of your kibbeh.  I made a pattern w/ pine-nuts and sage leaves on mine; get creative, go wild!
  12. Bake in oven at 180C for 30-40 minutes, or until kibbeh is browned and crust is cooked through.
  13. Serve w/ fattoush, torshi and cooked greens.

 

Filed Under: Animal, Beef, Dinner, Meat Monday, Recipes, Seasons, Summer Tagged With: beef, dinner, Iraqi food, lunch, meat monday

Meat Monday

May 9, 2016 By Lauren

ItaliaThis Meat Monday I’m sharing two recipes from one of my favorite cookbooks, gifted to me by a dear friend eons ago.

Honey from a Weed: Fasting and Feasting in Tuscany, Catalonia, The Cyclades and Apulia.

Written by Patience Gray, it’s an autobiographical cookbook of sorts, based on her time living in remote regions of Mediterranea, where her partner’s passions (he, a sculptor, there, marble) brought them.

With chapter titles like Fire, Vegetable Heritage, Some Products of the Pig, Apropos of Salt Herring, and, of course, Fasting, Feasting, it’s a charming thing to pick up and pore into and dream of a different time, a time where Meat Monday was practiced by most (out of necessity, but also, I like to think, in harmony w/ the rhythm of the region), and all parts of the animal were put to use.

I’m sharing 2 recipes for 1 cut of meat that is particularly daunting: tongue.  Growing up with an Iraqi, where cold tongue sandwiches were a typical snack, grandmother, I was no stranger to tongue.  There it was, in crystal plate, on Passover table, pounded then boiled and, honestly, looking no different than tenderloin.

I haven’t ever cooked tongue myself, so I’m posting these recipes to light proverbial fire under derrière.  Have you ever cooked tongue?  Would you consider trying it?

Hopefully these recipes inspire you.  (To try tongue and also to check out Gray’s book, the way she weaves her real-life experiences into her recipes, her conversational style, it’s all incredibly inspiring and refreshing, even 30 years after its original publication).

Lingue di Vitello in Salsa di Ciliegie Marasche // Calves’ tongue w/ morello cherry sauce

By Patience Gray

This recipe derives from growing morello cherries in the garden

Ingredients:

  • 2 calves tongues each weighing about 1/2 kilo (1 lb 2 oz)
  • sea salt

Aromatics:

  • 1/2 an onion
  • a carrot
  • a piece of celery
  • 6 juniper berries

For the sauce:

  • 3 or 4 tablespoons of morello cherry jam
  • a wine glass of six-year-old red wine
  • 40 g (1 1/2 oz) butter
  • a wine glass of reduced broth

Directions:

Rub the tongues with sea salt and put them in an earthenware crock for 24 hours packed with a little sea salt above and below

Next day: rinse the tongues and put them in a pan, cover with water, bring to a boil and smmer with the aromatics for 1 1/2 hours, covered, on a low heat.  Leave to cool in the broth.

Take them out of the pan, peel and trim them, then replace them to keep hot in the liaquor which you have quickly heated and reduced.

If you have made the morello cherry jam or have managed to buy some prepare the sauce:

Put the butter in a pan large enough to take the tongues, add several spoonfuls of morello jam, melt it stirring on a low heat with the butter, then add a wineglass of red wine and very little of the hot broth, passed through a strainer.  Put the tongues into the sauce, still on a low heat, to absorb the colour and the flavour; after a few minutes turn them over and simmer for another few minutes.

Set the tongues on a white flat dish and pour the scarce sauce complete with cherries over them.  To carve: slice them horizontally, in thin slices.  Very simple and delicious.

Lingua Salmistrata // Pickled Ox Tongue

By Patience Gray

One of the sights in winter in the Veneto–pickled tongues, magnificent, in butchers’ shops.  Here is the Venetian principle of pickling them, producing not only a fine colour but an agreeable flavour.  (Calves’ feet, a calf’s head or a piece of belly of pork can conveniently be put into the pickle at the same time).

The Pickle:

Dissolve 1 1/2 kilos (3lb 6oz) of sea salt in 5 litres (180fl oz) of water with 150g (5oz) saltpetre (from a chemist).  Add 300g (11oz) brown molasses, boil for a few minutes, then add a branch of thyme, a twig of rosemary, 2 or 3 leaves of sage, 3 or 4 bayleaves, a dozen juniper berries and a dozen peppercorns, all confined in a muslin bag, and leave till cold.  This takes some hours.

Pour the liquor over the ox tongue in a glazed earthenware crock (or a stoneware crock should you have one), put a clean board over the meat and weight it with a large pebble or non-porous stone to keep the tongue immersed. Leave for a week in the pickle.  (In the depth of winter it can stay longer).

To Cook It:

Take it out and immerse in tepid water for a few hours to remove some of the salt.  Then put it in a large marmite with plenty of cold water to cover.  Bring to a boil, skim off the scum as it rises, then simmer slowly–25 minutes for every 1/2 kilo (1lb 2oz) and 1/2 an hour besides–with the lid on.  It takes longer than a fresh tongue because the saltpetre has the effect of slightly toughening the meat.  Throw away the cooking water.  The scarlet tongue, peeled and trimmed of its little bones and excess fat, is served hot with a passato di patate, leaf spinach and salsa verde and mostarda di frutta.

Filed Under: Meat Monday Tagged With: meat, meat monday, tongue

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