The Soaked Bean

Seeking Nourishment, Finding Traditions

Lardon, Egg + Dandelion Green Salad

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dandelion greensThis is a Swiss recipe, taught to me by a children’s book that Lu’s cousin wrote about making this salad as a girl with her grandmother (Lu’s grand-aunt).

If you’re wondering how you can write a whole book (even if only child-size) about making a salad, then you probably haven’t foraged for greens before.

Nourishing qualities aside, when you forage for something wild your dinner suddenly becomes an experience.  Maybe you take a bus to visit a friend in her village at the top of the lake and pick greens in a field beside a river, or maybe the greens are right smack dab in your backyard.  Either way, there you are, gathering green with own two hands, feet (bare is best) firm upon earth, and as you’re gathering you’re weaving connections, the deep, rooted kind, to your food, to what nourishes you, us all.

eggsI remember my first experience foraging for dinner.  It was in Greece, where old women walk the narrow village streets carrying plastic bags filled with green, “horta” as they’re called there, wild weeds.  I was living in Pelion, a mountainous region south of Thessaloniki and I was handed a plastic bag and instructed to fill it.  I remember thinking how ample the country was as I crouched and picked and crouched and picked, to have nourishing greens growing everywhere.

Looking back, I realize that a lot of what I was foraging for were dandelion greens.  Dandelion!  A plant that grows almost everywhere.  How ample all our lands are, with a little guidance from tradition, from the figurative Greek grandma.

lardons

The secret to this recipe is the sauce, which Lu’s grand-aunt called “stone sauce”, so good it could make even stones seem appetizing. (A much lovelier qualifier than the currently popular “crack”, in my humble opinion).

It really is good.  It makes a more bitter green like dandelion just plain delicious, no matter where you fall on the bitter-appreciation spectrum.  The addition of lardons (small cubes of cured pork belly, not dissimilar to bacon) and soft-boiled eggs is optional, but highly recommended.

The dandelion is a gentle introduction to foraging.  It’s easy to identify and, as it grows in so many regions, is easy to find during this mid-Spring season.  Just make sure to forage away from major roads or dog-walking paths and, as always, to take only what you need.

Happy foraging and happy feasting!

dandelionsaladLardon, Egg + Dandelion Green Salad

Stone Sauce:

  • 1 teaspoon mustard
  • 1 teaspoon cenovis (marmite could be used in its place or it could be omitted altogether)
  • 6 tablespoons olive oil
  • 3 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
  • 1/2 shallot, minced
  • 4 sprigs parsley, minced
  • pinch salt
  1. Add ingredients to a glass jar.  Cover with lid and shake until emulsified.

Salad:

  • two handfuls dandelion greens
  • 50gs lardons
  • 2 eggs from pasture-fed hens
  1. Add greens to big bowl.  Cover with cold water and splash of vinegar.  Let sit.
  2. Meanwhile, put eggs in a small, lidded pot.  Cover with cold water and put on stove to boil.  Once boiling, turn off heat and cover with lid.  Let sit for 3-4 minutes.  Spoon eggs out immediately into small bowl of cold water.
  3. Add lardons to cast-iron pan.  Cook on medium heat for 3-4 minutes, until crisp.
  4. Swish greens around and drain water.  Refill and swish and drain until water runs clear.  Use a salad spinner, or pat to dry.  Add to salad bowl.
  5. Add lardons to salad bowl.
  6. Take eggs from small bowl and peel.  Arrange on top of lardons and greens.
  7. Pour over dressing, mix and serve.

Braised Butternut Squash + Polenta: Fast Slow-Food

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braisedsquashwebfinal

During nutrition workshops or consultations at some point the following question invariably comes up: how do I cook nutritious meals fast?

Maybe you, dear reader, are currently pondering the same thing.

I feel you.  All of you.  As someone who’s comfortable in the kitchen and who also really enjoys spending time there, I’ve definitely asked myself this question on many a tired Thursday night.  It’s a big one.

Everything’s moving at an increasingly rapid pace, culturally speaking.  We’re working longer hours to pay for growing expenses, spanning greater distances in shorter amounts of time, mining deeper for gases, rare metals, data.  The possibilities are limitless, expansive, vast, if only we had the time.  Time could be said to be our most precious commodity and we allocate it accordingly, seeking the fastest solutions for problems, not least such corporeal ones like what to eat tonight.

The free time we have is typically spent on leisurely pursuits—taking a walk, meeting a friend for a drink, and, more often than not, looking at a screen.  Whether it’s the news or a premium-cable series or a 90’s romcom or a video-game or an instagram feed from someone living in the wilds of Maine or Los Angeles, it’s no surprise that at the end of a long and stressful work day, we want nothing more than to plug into some other story to unwind.

And while there’s nothing inherently wrong w/ this, what’s happened is that the time for cooking, preparing a nourishing meal, has been reallocated and what nourishment we receive is a byproduct of convenience which, as we all know, is never what it’s cracked up to be (see: the tv dinner, the happy meal, the delivery pizza).

Cooking, in my opinion, is self-care just as stretching in the morning, showering on a regular basis, brushing your teeth, drinking enough water and getting some good sleep are; it should be part of our daily routine.  But it isn’t.  We’ve never been taught to integrate it into our routines as we have those other things which brings me back to that commonly-posed question.

How do I cook nutritious meals fast?  Where do I start?

Start here, with a butternut squash, some polenta, some spinach.  This is a recipe for what I like to call fast slow-food.  Fast because you’ll spend 15 minutes doing something–chopping or whisking or stirring.  Maybe 20 if you’re new to the kitchen.

Slow because the rest of the hour or so until dinner is served can be spent doing whatever it is you do to unwind.  Meanwhile a series of chemical reactions will be working for you, transforming squash, spinach, corn into nourishing meal.

There’s no secret trick or secret soy-based-shake for this.  Cooking takes practice and a bit of planning and, yes, a bit of time.  But by learning to make a few, simple recipes it will get easier and easier to incorporate them into your daily routine.  To make nutritious meals (relatively) fast.

Who knows?  Maybe the more time you spend in the kitchen, the more you’ll enjoy being there.  Dear reader, it happened to me.

Braised Butternut Squash + Polenta

Note: I haven’t cooked butternut squash in ages, mostly because I disdained peeling it.  B/c it’s braising for such a good amount of time, there’s no need to peel–the skin softens up beautifully and can be eaten.  Otherwise, you can easily scoop the squash from the skin. 

Adapted from Ottolenghi’s Plenty More

For the Squash:

  • 1 butternut squash, sliced in half lengthwise then sliced in 3 sections
  • 1/2 cup chicken bone-broth
  • 1 knob butter
  • 5 pods cardamom, crushed
  • 4 bay leaves
  • 1 teaspoon whole black pepper
  • 1 teaspoon whole cumin seeds
  • 1 teaspoon whole coriander seeds
  • 1 section of orange rind
  • couple of pinches salt
  1. Turn oven to 200C.  While oven heats, place squash bottom-side down in a large braising pan.  Pour broth over and add herbs and spices.  Add dabs of butter on top of squash.
  2. Place in oven and let braise for 45minutes-1hour, until soft. Occasionally, spoon broth over squash while braising.

For the Spinach:

  • 1 big bunch spinach, roughly chopped
  • 3 cloves garlic, minced
  • 1 knob ghee
  • couple of pinches salt
  1. Place cast-iron pan on medium-heat.  Add ghee.
  2. Add garlic and salt and cook until fragrant.
  3. Add spinach and stir, cook for 10 or so minutes, until deep green.

For the Polenta:

Note:  For maximum digestibility I soak my polenta overnight in warm, lemony water. 

  • 3 cups chicken bone broth
  • 1 cup water
  • 1 cup course polenta
  • 1 knob butter
  1. Bring bone-broth and water to a boil in a large sauce-pot on the stove.
  2. Whisk in polenta and turn heat down to low.  Cover and let cook for 30-45 minutes, giving the polenta a good whisk every 10 minutes or so.
  3. Turn heat off and add butter, stir.

Layer polenta, spinach and squash on plate.  Serve w/ a good grate of parmigiano, glug of olive oil, and sprinkle of salt.