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Chicken Caesar Salad, Rediscovered

April 17, 2015 By Lauren

yasFrom the ages of 9 through 14, every time my family and I went out to eat, I’d order the same exact thing: a coke and a chicken Caesar salad.  And while I’d like to think that there was some prescient nutritional know-how occurring there (outside of the coke, of course), the truth of those chicken Caesar days-of-yore is that I just really loved grilled chicken and creamy dressing and the combination of those two things was my young idea of perfection.

Now, if this were any other nutritionally-orientated food-blog, this would probably be a cautionary tale.  Raw egg + anchovies + an ordinary (i.e. not kale) lettuce + toasted bread + a mountain (if prepared properly) of grated cheese?  Those ingredients certainly don’t fit within the restrictions of many dietary labels, and especially not all at once, all on one plate, or bowl, as it were.

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Up until this past Winter, I, too, had nearly forgotten this childhood obsession classic.  It wasn’t until I was preparing dinner with an exceptionally empty fridge–a couple eggs, half a head of frisée, a jar of anchovies for adding to take-away pizzas–that I remembered ye olde Caesar salad.  Naturalmente! And it wasn’t until I was on wikipedia researching the origins of this salad that I learned it’s not the ancient Roman tradition I’d always thought it to be–my vision being limited to togas, doric columns, orgies, gladiator sandals and chicken Caesar salads–but, in a shocking turn of events, a Tijuana one!

dressingmm caesar

Caesar Cardini was no emperor, but an Italian-American restaurant-owner who opened a restaurant in Mexico to avoid the restrictions of prohibition.  As in the case of my rediscovery of Caesar’s namesake salad, the original was created out of an empty fridge and an industrious spirit.  Some even say it all happened on the fourth of July.

The Caesar salad is my kind of tradition: one that combines many cultural influences, that improvises, that creates plenty from what is seemingly empty.  Sadly, the majority of the Caesar salads of today, and my days-of-yore, rely on bottled dressing, imported lettuce, battery-raised chicken and processed cheese.  This salad is a prime example of the importance of using quality ingredients to create a meal that is both satisfying and nourishing.

dressingtrois dressingdeuxChicken Caesar salad can be an incredibly nourishing mealtime choice, if prepared without the use of a bottled dressing.  I’ve spoken before about the enzymatic benefits of a condiment like the Caesar’s raw egg-and-olive-oil based dressing.  Prepared with oily anchovies, Springtime’s wild garlic, and a fermented apple-cider vinegar this dressing also contains anti-inflammatory omega-3 fatty-acids, the anti-viral properties of garlic and the pro-digestive properties of fermented vinegar.

anchovie egg springarlic Use some locally-grown Romaine lettuce, some Spring onions or a stored Winter one, a chunk of raw-milk Parmigiano Reggiano (plain ol’ grocery-store parmesan is highly processed and made from pasturized milk), and some roasted chicken from a pasture-raised hen and you’ve got one heck of a nourishing and satisfying Spring-time meal.  Hail Caesar!

tableside

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Chicken Caesar Salad, Rediscovered

Ingredients

    For the dressing
  • 1 egg yolk, from a pasture-raised hen
  • 1 teaspoon mustard
  • 4 anchovies, minced
  • 1/4 cup of extra-virgin olive oil
  • 4 tablespoons apple-cider vinegar
  • 1/4 cup wild garlic, minced
  • pinch salt & pepper, to taste
  • For the croutons:
  • Chunk of rye, sourdough bread, sliced into bite-sized chunks
  • 1 teaspoon ghee
  • salt & pepper, to taste
  • For the salad:
  • 1 head of Romaine lettuce, chopped
  • 1 spring onion or 1/2 yellow onion, sliced thinly
  • 1 roasted chicken breast, sliced into strips
  • chunk of Parmigiano Reggiano, grated

Directions

    For the dressing:
  1. Whisk together egg yolk, mustard and anchovies in a bowl. Slowly add olive-oil, starting with only a few drops at a time and increasing the amount as the mixture begins to emulsify (congeals). (This is the same technique as making mayo, the slower you add at the beginning, the more likely it is for the dressing to properly emulsify. Don't rush this step!) Whisk in vinegar, adding more tablespoons until the dressing is the consistency (the vinegar makes it more liquid and less creamy) you desire. Mix in garlic and add salt & pepper to taste. Pour into jar and set aside.
  2. For the croutons:
  3. Heat ghee in cast-iron pan on medium heat. Add bread-chunks in pan, adding salt and pepper. Let cook for 2-3 minutes, then turn chunks to opposite side in pan. Let cook for another 2-3 minutes. Place on plate and let cool while preparing the salad.
  4. For the salad:
  5. Layer lettuce, onion, chicken and bread crumbs in a big salad bowl. Grate a mountain of Parmigiano on top. Pour dressing over everything and mix table-side. Serve and celebrate!
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Filed Under: Animal, Chicken, Dinner, Lunch, Recipes, Seasons, Spring Tagged With: chicken, dinner, lunch, salad, spring, wildgarlic

(Grand-père) Loulou’s Smoked Trout & Endive Salad

March 15, 2015 By Lauren

fera

Loulou says:

My grand-père Loulou used to say, “Une année c’est comme une glace à l’eau, ça fond vite.” (A year is like a popsicle, it melts quickly). 

Twice a week, (the original) Loulou was making my lunch.  It was like an institution.  I was the last of the grand-children, so he was already well-trained and already nostalgic, I think, about ending this cycle with me.  Everything was well-organized–the timing to go to the farmer’s market, the butcher, the bakery for my sweet.  Every cousin was always saying the same thing after every meal, “Merci Loulou, c’était très bon.” Loulou was always eating standing up, close to his oven–as if he were being punished.  Cooking seemed something very serious to me, at this time.  Once, I had to stay because I wasn’t eating my salad, so finally I kept my salad under my tongue and went to the bathroom to spit it out.

But all that’s just surface.  Loulou & I were best friends. That’s true. My after-school snack was a time when our generational gap was disappearing. 

I often go through his recipe book and this salad was the first thing I made that I had never tried from him.  That’s what makes it so special to me.  It feels like discovering something for him–something he had meant to make, but never got around to–it feels, in a way, like keeping his spirit alive. 

It’s a good seasonal salad because it uses the first radishes of the Spring, the last apples of the Fall, smoked trout from the Winter, and the bitter endives that see us from Winter to Spring.

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(The young) Loulou introduced this salad to me last Winter in the mountains, using just endives, an apple and this yoghurt-y, mustard-y dressing.  It was bitter and sweet, tart, creamy and crunchy, and I remember him saying, “You usually make it with trout.”

trout

Trout!  One of those foods I enjoy when it’s presented to me, but hardly ever seem to seek out.  Before making this salad this Saturday, even after seven-months of living alongside the biggest lake in (Western) Europe, I’d yet to really explore all the trout & trout-like (we used the unique-to-these-Alpine-climes white-fish fera in our version) possibilities here.  The smokiness of the fish is a truly lovely addition and takes this salad to next-level, all-you-need-for-your-picnic-lunch status, for sure.

I’ve finally tried this salad (the original) Loulou’s way, after a year (that did, indeed, go by as quickly as a melting fruit bar) of making it the way (the young) Loulou introduced it to me.

threecolors

And this is what’s special to me–how recipes can evolve as they’re passed from generation to generation, and how they can keep the spirit of a person, a connection or a conversation between two people alive.

Merci Loulou, c’était tres bon!

dressing

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(Grand-père) Loulou’s Smoked Trout & Endive Salad

Sometimes I feel like the descriptor "sustainably caught" is simplifying something that is, in fact, quite complicated. Aquaculture (or fish farms) can be (but are not always!) problematic and the consumption of wild, line-caught fish can be linked to aquaculture's (not always responsible) expansion. I'm not sure what the right answer is (and would love to hear your thoughts on the matter!), but we live in a region where line-caught lake fish are a-plenty so we chose some wild, line-caught fera for our version of this salad. Feel free to make adjustments (substituting roast chicken for fish, for example) according to what's available in your region.

Ingredients

  • 3 small endives, chopped
  • 1/2 sweet apple, diced
  • 2 handfuls radishes, chopped in half
  • 1/2 fillet of smoked trout or another smoked white-fish, sliced in small pieces
  • 4 tablespoons yogurt
  • 2 teaspoons grainy mustard
  • 4 tablespoons olive oil
  • juice of 1 lemon
  • salt & pepper

Directions

  1. Chop endives, apple, and radishes and place in large salad bowl.
  2. Slice fish in small, bite-able pieces and add to bowl.
  3. Mix yogurt, mustard, oil, lemon and salt and pepper in a jar and shake until emulsified.
  4. Pour over salad, mix and enjoy.
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Filed Under: Animal, Dinner, Fish, Lunch, Recipes, Seasons, Spring Tagged With: apples, dinner, endives, lunch, picnic, radishes, salad, simple, smokedtrout, spring

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