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Winter Torshi

January 17, 2016 By Lauren

pickled cauliflower

The more you get into pickling, the more you realize you can pickle (or more rightly, ferment) practically anything.  Typically cucumbers are the gate-way vegetable, followed by cabbage for ‘kraut, green-beans for New England style dilly-beans, then carrots, turnips, radishes, kohlrabi, hot peppers, lemons, garlic…

At some point (perhaps after kohlrabi), the possibilities begin to seem absolutely endless.  I, personally, have pickled all of the above plant-foods and have tasted countless other ones (mangoes, the stalks from Swiss chard, mushrooms, pineapple [!!]).  Then, there’s the boundless amount of combinations–cabbage w/ algae and nettle, radishes and turnips mixed w/ thin slices of beet, carrots w/ turmeric and garlic and zucchini and turnips and cauliflower.

cauliflower

Yep, you can pickle cauliflower, too.

The above combination was my first introduction to pickles.  Iraqi torshi (the Arabic word for pickles): stained-yellow, all crunchy and salty and sour.  This was the jar that was consistently found in my Iraqi grandmother’s fridge and the fridge of, I’d wager, most Iraqi grandmothers.  This was the jar I would tuck my fork into and ply pickle after pickle out of, until my mouth would buzz from the brine.

Torshi was a year-round deal in my grandmother’s kitchen, but I’m categorizing my variation as a Winter kind-of deal because, even though there’s cauliflower a-plenty in the Summer, there just aren’t as many other Winter candidates for pickling (raise yr hand if you’re already fed-up w/ ‘kraut) and ’tis the season to celebrate variation in yr local diet when you can find it.

carrots

As usual, this isn’t a super-strict recipe, but more a set of guidelines for you to do w/ what you will. I use cauliflower, red carrots, turmeric root and garlic in my version, but if you live in a region where you have other options (like zucchini and summer turnips) then throw those in as well.  If you want to stain your pickles yellow, use powdered turmeric instead of the root.  The main point is to cut your vegetables into even-sized chunks to get them fermenting at a similar rate (in order for them to be similarly crunchy).

wintertorshi

Winter Torshi

Note:  For more information on the health benefits of lacto-fermented pickles see here.

#1.  Chop cauliflower and carrots (and zucchini and summer turnips, if you have them) into even-sized chunks.  Slice turmeric into thin strips, peel garlic and leave whole.

#2.  While you’re chopping, put a kettle to boil.  Pour boiling water into seal-able glass jar.  Let sit for a few moments.  Pour water out of jar and let cool (either by pouring cold water into jar, or just leaving it for a few more moments).

#3.  Add vegetables and herbs to jar.  Stuff until jar is full.

#4.  Add celtic sea-salt (or another unrefined, sun-dried sea salt).  The amount depends on the size of your jar. For example, I used a 2-litre sized jar so I added 3 tablespoons of salt.  If your jar is smaller, add less.  If it’s bigger, add more.  You need your brine (your salt + water solution) to be salty enough to promote the production of beneficial bacteria, so there’s a minimum amount necessary, but there’s no maximum. Experiment and taste your brine as you’re working.

#5.  Fill jar w/ non-chlorinated water.  (For those of you who are state-side, to de-chlorinate your water simply fill a jar w/ tap water and let stand for at least 30 minutes.  Good practice to get into even when not making pickles, methinks.)

#6.  Make sure your vegetables are submerged under your brine.  To do this, you may need to use a tool–like a sterilized (boiled) stone, or the root-end of the cauliflower–to press down on your vegetables and seal them in.  If you packed them super tightly, you won’t need this tool.  You just need to make sure none of your vegetables are exposed to air.

#7.  Seal tightly and store in a cool, dark place for at least 3 days.  I fermented my Winter torshi for 5 days because I wanted it to be crunchy.  After opening, store in the refrigerator.

Filed Under: Ferments, Recipes, Seasons, Sides, Winter Tagged With: cauliflower, condiments, DIY, ferments, lactofermented, middleeasternfood, pickles, sides, torshi, winter

Apple-Butter & Living Seasonally

November 23, 2015 By Lauren

appleIt’s that time of year, again.  When, suddenly, we find ourselves submerged, inky hours encroaching, then outnumbering the light ones, begging the answer to the question:  who’s afraid of the dark?

Darkness is what is unseen, what is felt, what lies just beyond the borders of what’s known.  It’s mystery, reflection, emotion, it’s boundless, vast, expansive.  Quiet.  Shrouding, obscuring, shape shifting.  It’s slippery, transformative.  Still.

Pretty frightening stuff, all grouped together like that, if you ask me.

Thankfully, we can avoid all that.  When night comes, we can arm ourselves w/ artificial light.  We can bathe in its various shades–the yellows and whites from lamps and overhead fixtures, the blues from screens; we can string beads of it ’round plastic pine-needles or trimmed hedge; we can shuttle from office to tinsel-strung department store to super-market check-out lane until we no longer notice that it’s dark out, at all.

We can push straight through November and the holiday season to March, to June and back again, maintaining the same pace, the same forward-march, and, what w/ all the Important Things to do during the holiday season–the shopping and cooking and hosting and eating and cleaning–, who has time for such things like being quiet, still?

I’ve been thinking a lot about season rhythms, lately and especially as I read through Jessica Prentice’s wonderful Full Moon Feast.  Her chapter on “The Moon of the Long Nights” is intended, I believe, for December, but I find the longest nights to be those happening now, when the sun rises around 8 and night’s fallen by 5.  I’ve thought a lot about these rhythms before, but always as related to food–digging up ramps in May, fat-slices of tomatoes in August, steaming bowl of pot-au-feu come December–and I had the realization that I’d never deeply considered seasonal living until, like (ahem), just now.

Perhaps the days are getting shorter for a reason, and, perhaps by turning our backs to the dark, and all its implications, we’re missing out on something that comes but once a year.  I’m not talking black friday, or christmas-movie marathons, or 99-cent candy canes.  I’m talking about a long Winter night’s sleep, and all it yields.

Prentice uses anthropologist’s T.S. Wiley’s book Lights Out: Sleep, Sugar and Survival to go delve into this subject.  Wiley posits that the same light that allows for the walk home, the trip to the grocery store, the hot shower long after the sun has set has positioned us all within a sort of perpetual summer, w/ the same shorter nights of sleep and the same disruptive effect on our hormones.

Our pre-agrarian and even some of our agrarian ancestors would have had nearly fourteen hours of sleep during Winter’s long nights.  Somewhere towards the middle, they would have entered a state quite different than the sleep we know.  Due to the release of the hormone prolactin, they entered a state of, as Prentice terms, “quiescent wakefulness,” during which brain-wave readings were shown to be similar to those observed during transcendental meditation.  Wiley writes, “It was in this period of time, which we no longer have access to, that we solved problems, transcended stress and, most likely, talked to the gods.”

Divine communication aside, Wiley’s hypothesis that the body’s–specifically our endocrine system–responses are cyclical just feels right.  I’ve always been drawn to the Hermetic maxim, “As above, so below”, so it serves to reason that our body’s needs would change w/ the seasons.  And while fourteen hour nights are just ever so slightly out-of-reach for most of us (just slightly), a full nine-hour night–or what’s needed to have our hormones functioning w/ ease and grace– is certainly attainable.

The holiday season does everything it can to turn our backs to the dark.  What I really take from Wiley and Prentice is this feeling that it’s okay to turn towards it, to be still, to slow down, to let any personal transformations unfold as they do.  I rarely eat tomatoes after their season because the taste, the texture, the smell, the feeling–it all feels off, wrong.  Maybe having the same expectations of self–of legs to carry me at same quick stride, hands to work at same swift speed, brain to filter in world through same lens–is wrong, too.

This Winter, like Jeannette Winterson, I’m choosing to embrace the night.  To reflect, feel, explore.  To light candles and take long soaks in the tub.  To sleep when I’m tired, even if it’s only 9pm.  To feel fine w/ not staying up later, not doing more, missing out.  To turn inwards.  To rest, even if all other signals are telling me to Shop ‘Til I Drop, Lose 5 Pounds, Find The Perfect Gift, The Perfect Me, and so on.  To take quiet walks in the woods.  To dream.

To make this slow-cooked apple-butter, which is sweet and rich and achingly simple and best enjoyed on one of these darkening Fall nights spread on rye-toast, or slathered on roast chicken or layered on crust of apple pie.

Print
Apple-Butter

Ingredients

  • 1 pound (or 2 kilos) apples, a mix of varieties is lovely but using the same variety will work just as well
  • 1 cup apple-cider, preferably fresh-pressed
  • 1 stick cinnamon, or handful of cardamom pods, or few star anise

Directions

  1. If you have a food-mill:
  2. Chop apples. Add them to sauce-pan w/ cider and spices. Heat on medium-low, stirring all the while, until you've made apple-sauce (20 minutes or so).
  3. Run through food-mill to remove skins + spices. Add to slow-cooker, set heat on low and cook overnight. If you don't have a slow-cooker, you can cook in oven, on low, for 8 hours or so.
  4. If you don't have a food-mill:
  5. Peel apples. Then follow all above steps, making sure to remove spices before adding apple-sauce to slow-cooker/oven.
  6. Spoon into sterilized glass jars. Keep refrigerated and enjoy it within the month.
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Filed Under: Fall, Fruit, Plant, Recipes, Seasons, Sides

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