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Apple-Butter & Living Seasonally

November 23, 2015 By Lauren

appleIt’s that time of year, again.  When, suddenly, we find ourselves submerged, inky hours encroaching, then outnumbering the light ones, begging the answer to the question:  who’s afraid of the dark?

Darkness is what is unseen, what is felt, what lies just beyond the borders of what’s known.  It’s mystery, reflection, emotion, it’s boundless, vast, expansive.  Quiet.  Shrouding, obscuring, shape shifting.  It’s slippery, transformative.  Still.

Pretty frightening stuff, all grouped together like that, if you ask me.

Thankfully, we can avoid all that.  When night comes, we can arm ourselves w/ artificial light.  We can bathe in its various shades–the yellows and whites from lamps and overhead fixtures, the blues from screens; we can string beads of it ’round plastic pine-needles or trimmed hedge; we can shuttle from office to tinsel-strung department store to super-market check-out lane until we no longer notice that it’s dark out, at all.

We can push straight through November and the holiday season to March, to June and back again, maintaining the same pace, the same forward-march, and, what w/ all the Important Things to do during the holiday season–the shopping and cooking and hosting and eating and cleaning–, who has time for such things like being quiet, still?

I’ve been thinking a lot about season rhythms, lately and especially as I read through Jessica Prentice’s wonderful Full Moon Feast.  Her chapter on “The Moon of the Long Nights” is intended, I believe, for December, but I find the longest nights to be those happening now, when the sun rises around 8 and night’s fallen by 5.  I’ve thought a lot about these rhythms before, but always as related to food–digging up ramps in May, fat-slices of tomatoes in August, steaming bowl of pot-au-feu come December–and I had the realization that I’d never deeply considered seasonal living until, like (ahem), just now.

Perhaps the days are getting shorter for a reason, and, perhaps by turning our backs to the dark, and all its implications, we’re missing out on something that comes but once a year.  I’m not talking black friday, or christmas-movie marathons, or 99-cent candy canes.  I’m talking about a long Winter night’s sleep, and all it yields.

Prentice uses anthropologist’s T.S. Wiley’s book Lights Out: Sleep, Sugar and Survival to go delve into this subject.  Wiley posits that the same light that allows for the walk home, the trip to the grocery store, the hot shower long after the sun has set has positioned us all within a sort of perpetual summer, w/ the same shorter nights of sleep and the same disruptive effect on our hormones.

Our pre-agrarian and even some of our agrarian ancestors would have had nearly fourteen hours of sleep during Winter’s long nights.  Somewhere towards the middle, they would have entered a state quite different than the sleep we know.  Due to the release of the hormone prolactin, they entered a state of, as Prentice terms, “quiescent wakefulness,” during which brain-wave readings were shown to be similar to those observed during transcendental meditation.  Wiley writes, “It was in this period of time, which we no longer have access to, that we solved problems, transcended stress and, most likely, talked to the gods.”

Divine communication aside, Wiley’s hypothesis that the body’s–specifically our endocrine system–responses are cyclical just feels right.  I’ve always been drawn to the Hermetic maxim, “As above, so below”, so it serves to reason that our body’s needs would change w/ the seasons.  And while fourteen hour nights are just ever so slightly out-of-reach for most of us (just slightly), a full nine-hour night–or what’s needed to have our hormones functioning w/ ease and grace– is certainly attainable.

The holiday season does everything it can to turn our backs to the dark.  What I really take from Wiley and Prentice is this feeling that it’s okay to turn towards it, to be still, to slow down, to let any personal transformations unfold as they do.  I rarely eat tomatoes after their season because the taste, the texture, the smell, the feeling–it all feels off, wrong.  Maybe having the same expectations of self–of legs to carry me at same quick stride, hands to work at same swift speed, brain to filter in world through same lens–is wrong, too.

This Winter, like Jeannette Winterson, I’m choosing to embrace the night.  To reflect, feel, explore.  To light candles and take long soaks in the tub.  To sleep when I’m tired, even if it’s only 9pm.  To feel fine w/ not staying up later, not doing more, missing out.  To turn inwards.  To rest, even if all other signals are telling me to Shop ‘Til I Drop, Lose 5 Pounds, Find The Perfect Gift, The Perfect Me, and so on.  To take quiet walks in the woods.  To dream.

To make this slow-cooked apple-butter, which is sweet and rich and achingly simple and best enjoyed on one of these darkening Fall nights spread on rye-toast, or slathered on roast chicken or layered on crust of apple pie.

Print
Apple-Butter

Ingredients

  • 1 pound (or 2 kilos) apples, a mix of varieties is lovely but using the same variety will work just as well
  • 1 cup apple-cider, preferably fresh-pressed
  • 1 stick cinnamon, or handful of cardamom pods, or few star anise

Directions

  1. If you have a food-mill:
  2. Chop apples. Add them to sauce-pan w/ cider and spices. Heat on medium-low, stirring all the while, until you've made apple-sauce (20 minutes or so).
  3. Run through food-mill to remove skins + spices. Add to slow-cooker, set heat on low and cook overnight. If you don't have a slow-cooker, you can cook in oven, on low, for 8 hours or so.
  4. If you don't have a food-mill:
  5. Peel apples. Then follow all above steps, making sure to remove spices before adding apple-sauce to slow-cooker/oven.
  6. Spoon into sterilized glass jars. Keep refrigerated and enjoy it within the month.
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Filed Under: Fall, Fruit, Plant, Recipes, Seasons, Sides

Franco-American Apple Pie

November 6, 2015 By Lauren

applepieI’ve been neglecting you, friends.  These past two months have been incredibly busy, and hard.  It’s been better, though, since I ended my contract at the cafe two weeks ago.  Only two months in and I was feeling on the verge of what a francophone would call burn-out, what a nutritionist would call adrenal fatigue, and what I would call desperate times.  I was coming home every afternoon, too exhausted to read, or write, or make a soup, or call my best friend, or water my plants, or take a walk under moonlight, or a hike in the sunshine, or meet a friend for a mug of something warm, or really hear how Lulu’s day was–too exhausted for care, both for self and for others and that is a bleak place to be, indeed.

It wasn’t only the hours that were draining.  And, without getting into too much detail, I was beginning to feel like I wasn’t doing the work that everything in me–heart, spirit, hands, mind–so badly wants to do.  Work that contributes something positive to my community, something honest, creative, uplifting, nourishing, healing.

Desperate times call for desperate measures.  So I left.  It wasn’t an easy decision in some ways, and in other ways it was the easiest one.

Now, I’ve been focusing my energies on my nutrition practice, a few other projects that I’ll share w/ y’all soon, and on all that care I’ve been missing out on these past months.

Like baking this apple pie.  This recipe comes from another blog–Lucy’s Kitchen Notebook–the first blog I ever followed. This was back in 2009, October, when I was subletting a tiny room in a light-filled apartment on 4th Street in the East Village, mending a broken heart from the passing of my grandma Stella.  The apartment had a spacious (by NYC standards) kitchen and was in close proximity to a farmer’s market and one of the ways I dealt w/ my loss was through making some of Lucy’s recipes, feeling transported to a small village in France (though Lucy’s based in Lyon), a plot of land where there are green walnuts to harvest for nocino and an apple tree that yields and yields.

I’m not sure if Lucy is still blogging, but I return to her archives from time-to-time and I always leave her page feeling galvanized.  These past two months, I haven’t spent much time in my kitchen and it’s been nourishing, in all the ways, to rekindle my relationship to home-cooking.

I’ve made this pie dozens of times since that Fall.  The crust has an almost sablé-like texture and the addition of apple-sauce is down-right genius, making this comfort food feel even more like a big ol’ cozy sweater.  It’s incredibly versatile — I’ve used spelt flour and, once, a mix of spelt and rye flours instead of the whole-wheat flour, yogurt instead of the petit suisse or cream cheese, olive oil instead of walnut oil, cardamom instead of cinnamon…in short, unlike other baked things, it seems pretty darn hard to mess this one up.

The one adjustment I’ve made that I’ve really come to love is to chop the apples into even, on the smaller-side cubes.  Chopped this way, they bake evenly and take on a texture that approximates pillows, marshmallows, clouds.  If you’re particular about one part of the recipe, make it this.

The other adjustment I’ve made is that I use whole cane sugar (like rapadura, sucanet, or jaggery) instead of processed ones.  If you’ve never baked w/ whole cane sugar, now’s the time to start!  It’s minimally processed (sun-dried instead of exposed to heat, high-pressure and bleach like white or brown sugars) and its taste has a depth & richness that other sugars lack.

I’ve never been in touch w/ Lucy, but I’ll sign off w/ a merci to her for all the work she does.  And especially for this recipe for her Favorite Apple Pie.

pie

 

Filed Under: Desserts, Fall, Fruit, Plant, Recipes, Seasons Tagged With: applepie, apples, applesauce, desserts, fall, spelt, sweets

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