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Meat Monday: Kibbeh Bil Sanieh + Nostalgic Food

July 25, 2016 By Lauren

pine nuts

Lately, I’ve been thinking a lot about nostalgic food, what it means when we eat something that’s linked to a cultural experience, a specific place or person.

There’s this study that was conducted more than 10 years ago that I often turn back to. In essence, it tested the nutritive value of nostalgia, of pleasure in food, in eating.

A group of Swedish women and a group of Thai women were given two meals (one, traditionally Swedish, the other traditionally Thai) with the same nutritional content of iron and then tested to see how much iron they’d absorbed from each meal.

This study was conducted when the idea that “a calorie is a calorie” was huge (which I suppose, in some circles, still is), and I imagine that their findings were, at the time, a revelation.  The Swedish women absorbed only half the amount of iron from the Thai meal as the Thai women and vice versa.

But it didn’t end there.  Both meals were placed in a blender and each group was given a blended version of their traditional meal.  Once again, absorption rates were far lower than when they’d eaten the meal as they remembered it and when it was, most likely, beautiful (because can we all just admit that blended is not nearly as beautiful as un-blended [which is why all sorts of berries and bee pollen are added to the tops of smoothie bowls, yeah?]).

This study is still fascinating to me for 2 main reasons.

#1: Nostalgic foods, comfort foods do more than just nourish our weary souls; they increase the absorption of nutrients that nourish us in a very tangible way.

#2.  The lattice-crust, the edible wildflower, heck, even the parsley garnish.  These little touches that make our meal more beautiful also make our meal more nutritious.  Turns out there’s a deeper calling to make our food beautiful than impressing our dinner guests or instagram followers.  (That being said, I know this dish isn’t *technically* the most beautiful [it is essentially a meat-pie, after all], but the pine-nuts and sage-leaves and pretty pattern do help).

bahart meat kebbeoven

Which brings me to kibbeh, specifically kibbeh bil sanieh which is essentially meat and pine nuts in a meat and bulgur shell.  Kibbeh is an incredibly nostalgic food for me.  Growing up with an Iraqi grandmother she always seemed to have a pie plate of it in her fridge, which we often ate cold and with a side of torshi.

I don’t have my grandma’s recipe for kibbeh, sadly, but this version comes pretty close.  For those w/o deeper ties to middle eastern culture, perhaps you’ve tried other kinds of kibbeh — football shaped and fried seems to be the most ubiquitous –braise those in tomato sauce and you’ve got a traditional Iraqi preparation, though one I don’t ever remember my grandma making.

I’ve been wanting to recreate her version of kibbeh for a while now, as for me, it’s a perfect Summer food, when you want to reserve turning on your oven on for fruit pies and the like.  You can make it at the beginning of the week and you can keep it in the fridge and bring it along on picnics for days after (I’d say at least 3), or you can even freeze half of it for those Summer nights when a dinner-game-plan has fallen by the wayside.

kebbeh plate

Kibbeh Bil Sanieh

For the baharat (adapted slightly from Ottolenghi’s Jerusalem):

Ingredients:

  • 1 teaspoon coriander seeds
  • 1 small cinnamon stick, cut into shards
  • 1/2 teaspoon cloves
  • 2 teaspoons cumin seeds
  • 2 teaspoons cardamom puds
  • 1/2 whole nutmeg grated

Directions:

Grind everything together in a mortar and pestle or spice grinder.  Store in sealed glass jar.

For the dough:

Ingredients:

  • 1 and 1/2 cup bulgur wheat, soaked overnight and drained thoroughly the next day
  • 700g ground grass-fed beef
  • 2 large yellow onions, cubed
  • 2 tablespoons baharat
  • 1 teaspoon Celtic sea salt
  • handful of sage leaves

For the filling:

Ingredients:

  • knob ghee
  • 1 large yellow onion, minced superfine
  • 1/2 cup beef bone broth
  • 500g ground grass-fed beef
  • 1 tablespoon baharat
  • sprinkle Celtic sea salt
  • 1/2 cup pine-nuts

Directions:

  1. Make the dough first, as it should chill for at least 2 hours in the fridge.  Add cubed onions to a food processor and process until the onions start releasing their juices.  Add beef, baharat, salt and bulgur to processor and process until everything comes together in a pale-colored, paste-like dough.  Cover and chill in the fridge.
  2. On medium heat, toast the pine nuts until golden brown.
  3. While pine nuts are toasting, heat big skillet on medium-heat and melt ghee.  Add onion and pinch salt and let cook for a few minutes.
  4. Add beef, salt, bone broth and baharat and cook until everything is browned.
  5. Turn off heat and mix in pine-nuts, reserving a few for the topping.
  6. Set aside meat mixture and let cool.
  7. Start the crust:  separate your dough into two even halves.  Use a little bowl of cold water to dip your hands while molding the bottom crust (it will make it easier to shape the crust).
  8. Add filling.
  9. For the top crust: Grab little pieces of dough and mold into a ball.  Press the ball flat between your palms and place it atop the meat filling.  You’ll work like this for the top; almost like patchwork, patching the little flat pieces together until they completely cover the filling.
  10. Score your kibbeh — here is a lovely illustration.
  11. Press your thumb into the center of the pie down to the pan.  Add a little olive oil to a bowl and use a brush to make an oil-wash on the top of your kibbeh.  I made a pattern w/ pine-nuts and sage leaves on mine; get creative, go wild!
  12. Bake in oven at 180C for 30-40 minutes, or until kibbeh is browned and crust is cooked through.
  13. Serve w/ fattoush, torshi and cooked greens.

 

Filed Under: Animal, Beef, Dinner, Meat Monday, Recipes, Seasons, Summer Tagged With: beef, dinner, Iraqi food, lunch, meat monday

Papa Olive’s Pot-au-Feu

March 5, 2015 By Lauren

veggiepile It’s March.  Hooray?

March may be home to the official start of Spring but, despite those handfuls of gorgeous, blue-skied days, it still gets cold, bitterly so (especially for those in the arctic zone formerly known as the Northern United States) and it certainly isn’t a month without its hardships.

I think this French proverb captures the mood of our current month best:
En Mars, quand il fait beau, prends ton manteau.
(In March, when it’s beautiful out, take your coat.)

Take. Your. Coat.

It’s a transitional month and one that can be confusing for mind, body, spirit and, as illustrated above, wardrobe.

carrotstixcloveonion

Perhaps these are the founding qualities behind Fun-a-Day, a March tradition created by the members of a sweet community in northern Michigan.  You choose a project for the month–haiku-writing, beer-brewing, bread-baking–that you do every day and at the end of the month you meet with the other participants and share your results.

I learned about this tradition in the summer, and, while I didn’t get to participate, I got to see some results of a few projects, and the sentiment behind this tradition–a way of combining personal new or challenging experiences with community and shared experience to cope with a month that can be trying–has stuck.

So much so that I’m declaring March a collaboration celebration on this here blog.  Every week, I’ll post an entry from a friend as well as my own weekly entries featuring a recipe from, or inspired by, a family member.

This weekend keep your eyes peeled for the first collaboration, an entry that celebrates the approaching arrival of Spring.

For now, I’m taking my coat and posting a last winter recipe for these last winter days: Pot-au-Feu, the traditional, broth-y, vegetable-brimming version.  It’s a simple recipe, one from Lulu’s father–Marco, or Papa Olive for those whom he gifts olive oil and honey to on the regular–, a wool-blanket-around-the-shoulders kind of meal, deeply nourishing and satisfying without a lot of fuss.

potatopeelin

Peel Yr Potatoes

In fact, the only fuss in this recipe is the peeling of a few potatoes.

While it may seem like an anathema to some holistically-minded folk, yes, I peel my potatoes.  Potatoes contain toxic compounds called glycoalkaloids, which function as a kind of natural pesticide, or protection, for the potato and are the reason why some folks avoid foods from the nightshade family (tomatoes, peppers, eggplant) altogether.

Glycoalkaloids are especially concentrated in the potato’s skin.  You’ve probably been told to avoid green-hued potatoes, or ones that have started to sprout.  This is because the glycoalkaloid content is very high.

Glycoalkaloids are why potatoes can be said to be inflammatory and I often wonder if those who report symptoms (like headaches, bloating, swelling) would find the experience of a peeled potato better.  (Anyone out there who can speak to this?)

potatopeels

In any case, I hope this recipe lends some brightness to you during these oft-rough first weeks of March.

Merci Papa Olive!

cookedpotpotfeuolive-21

Print
Papa Olive's Pot-au-Feu

Ingredients

  • 1 pound beef shoulder
  • few marrow bones
  • 2 carrots
  • 2 leeks
  • 2 onions
  • 2 parsnips
  • 4 potatoes, peeled
  • 1 celeriac, de-bearded and peeled
  • 2 turnips
  • 1 rutabaga
  • 2 teaspoons cloves
  • 4 bay leaves

Directions

  1. Slice beef shoulder into big chunks. Add meat and marrow bones to large stockpot and fill w/ cold water. Put on high heat and bring to a boil. Once boiling, take off heat, drain water and remove meat and bones from pot. Wipe pot clean.
  2. While meat and boils are boiling, cut all the vegetables, except the onions, into big chunks -- you want them to be roughly the same, big size (remember, they're going to cook for a few hours). Peel your onions and stick the cloves in the skin (the onion is your pincushion, the cloves are your needles).
  3. Add vegetables, meat and bones into stock-pot. Cover with cold water. Place on stove and heat on high until comes to a rolling boiling. Skim surface for impurities, then lower. Cover with a lid and simmer for 2-3 hours, checking every so often to see if your meat is tender. Once tender, serve!

Serve with lacto-fermented pickles, grainy mustard, course salt and a chunk of sourdough bread.

It will keep in the fridge for 4 days, if well-sealed. Otherwise, it freezes well.

3.1

 

potaufeu

Filed Under: Animal, Beef, Recipes, Seasons, Winter Tagged With: bonebroth, dinner, potaufeu, suisse, winter

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