The Soaked Bean

Seeking Nourishment, Finding Traditions

  • About
  • Recipes
  • Library
  • Events

Meat Monday

May 9, 2016 By Lauren

ItaliaThis Meat Monday I’m sharing two recipes from one of my favorite cookbooks, gifted to me by a dear friend eons ago.

Honey from a Weed: Fasting and Feasting in Tuscany, Catalonia, The Cyclades and Apulia.

Written by Patience Gray, it’s an autobiographical cookbook of sorts, based on her time living in remote regions of Mediterranea, where her partner’s passions (he, a sculptor, there, marble) brought them.

With chapter titles like Fire, Vegetable Heritage, Some Products of the Pig, Apropos of Salt Herring, and, of course, Fasting, Feasting, it’s a charming thing to pick up and pore into and dream of a different time, a time where Meat Monday was practiced by most (out of necessity, but also, I like to think, in harmony w/ the rhythm of the region), and all parts of the animal were put to use.

I’m sharing 2 recipes for 1 cut of meat that is particularly daunting: tongue.  Growing up with an Iraqi, where cold tongue sandwiches were a typical snack, grandmother, I was no stranger to tongue.  There it was, in crystal plate, on Passover table, pounded then boiled and, honestly, looking no different than tenderloin.

I haven’t ever cooked tongue myself, so I’m posting these recipes to light proverbial fire under derrière.  Have you ever cooked tongue?  Would you consider trying it?

Hopefully these recipes inspire you.  (To try tongue and also to check out Gray’s book, the way she weaves her real-life experiences into her recipes, her conversational style, it’s all incredibly inspiring and refreshing, even 30 years after its original publication).

Lingue di Vitello in Salsa di Ciliegie Marasche // Calves’ tongue w/ morello cherry sauce

By Patience Gray

This recipe derives from growing morello cherries in the garden

Ingredients:

  • 2 calves tongues each weighing about 1/2 kilo (1 lb 2 oz)
  • sea salt

Aromatics:

  • 1/2 an onion
  • a carrot
  • a piece of celery
  • 6 juniper berries

For the sauce:

  • 3 or 4 tablespoons of morello cherry jam
  • a wine glass of six-year-old red wine
  • 40 g (1 1/2 oz) butter
  • a wine glass of reduced broth

Directions:

Rub the tongues with sea salt and put them in an earthenware crock for 24 hours packed with a little sea salt above and below

Next day: rinse the tongues and put them in a pan, cover with water, bring to a boil and smmer with the aromatics for 1 1/2 hours, covered, on a low heat.  Leave to cool in the broth.

Take them out of the pan, peel and trim them, then replace them to keep hot in the liaquor which you have quickly heated and reduced.

If you have made the morello cherry jam or have managed to buy some prepare the sauce:

Put the butter in a pan large enough to take the tongues, add several spoonfuls of morello jam, melt it stirring on a low heat with the butter, then add a wineglass of red wine and very little of the hot broth, passed through a strainer.  Put the tongues into the sauce, still on a low heat, to absorb the colour and the flavour; after a few minutes turn them over and simmer for another few minutes.

Set the tongues on a white flat dish and pour the scarce sauce complete with cherries over them.  To carve: slice them horizontally, in thin slices.  Very simple and delicious.

Lingua Salmistrata // Pickled Ox Tongue

By Patience Gray

One of the sights in winter in the Veneto–pickled tongues, magnificent, in butchers’ shops.  Here is the Venetian principle of pickling them, producing not only a fine colour but an agreeable flavour.  (Calves’ feet, a calf’s head or a piece of belly of pork can conveniently be put into the pickle at the same time).

The Pickle:

Dissolve 1 1/2 kilos (3lb 6oz) of sea salt in 5 litres (180fl oz) of water with 150g (5oz) saltpetre (from a chemist).  Add 300g (11oz) brown molasses, boil for a few minutes, then add a branch of thyme, a twig of rosemary, 2 or 3 leaves of sage, 3 or 4 bayleaves, a dozen juniper berries and a dozen peppercorns, all confined in a muslin bag, and leave till cold.  This takes some hours.

Pour the liquor over the ox tongue in a glazed earthenware crock (or a stoneware crock should you have one), put a clean board over the meat and weight it with a large pebble or non-porous stone to keep the tongue immersed. Leave for a week in the pickle.  (In the depth of winter it can stay longer).

To Cook It:

Take it out and immerse in tepid water for a few hours to remove some of the salt.  Then put it in a large marmite with plenty of cold water to cover.  Bring to a boil, skim off the scum as it rises, then simmer slowly–25 minutes for every 1/2 kilo (1lb 2oz) and 1/2 an hour besides–with the lid on.  It takes longer than a fresh tongue because the saltpetre has the effect of slightly toughening the meat.  Throw away the cooking water.  The scarlet tongue, peeled and trimmed of its little bones and excess fat, is served hot with a passato di patate, leaf spinach and salsa verde and mostarda di frutta.

Filed Under: Meat Monday Tagged With: meat, meat monday, tongue

Lardon, Egg + Dandelion Green Salad

May 2, 2016 By Lauren

dandelion greensThis is a Swiss recipe, taught to me by a children’s book that Lu’s cousin wrote about making this salad as a girl with her grandmother (Lu’s grand-aunt).

If you’re wondering how you can write a whole book (even if only child-size) about making a salad, then you probably haven’t foraged for greens before.

Nourishing qualities aside, when you forage for something wild your dinner suddenly becomes an experience.  Maybe you take a bus to visit a friend in her village at the top of the lake and pick greens in a field beside a river, or maybe the greens are right smack dab in your backyard.  Either way, there you are, gathering green with own two hands, feet (bare is best) firm upon earth, and as you’re gathering you’re weaving connections, the deep, rooted kind, to your food, to what nourishes you, us all.

eggsI remember my first experience foraging for dinner.  It was in Greece, where old women walk the narrow village streets carrying plastic bags filled with green, “horta” as they’re called there, wild weeds.  I was living in Pelion, a mountainous region south of Thessaloniki and I was handed a plastic bag and instructed to fill it.  I remember thinking how ample the country was as I crouched and picked and crouched and picked, to have nourishing greens growing everywhere.

Looking back, I realize that a lot of what I was foraging for were dandelion greens.  Dandelion!  A plant that grows almost everywhere.  How ample all our lands are, with a little guidance from tradition, from the figurative Greek grandma.

lardons

The secret to this recipe is the sauce, which Lu’s grand-aunt called “stone sauce”, so good it could make even stones seem appetizing. (A much lovelier qualifier than the currently popular “crack”, in my humble opinion).

It really is good.  It makes a more bitter green like dandelion just plain delicious, no matter where you fall on the bitter-appreciation spectrum.  The addition of lardons (small cubes of cured pork belly, not dissimilar to bacon) and soft-boiled eggs is optional, but highly recommended.

The dandelion is a gentle introduction to foraging.  It’s easy to identify and, as it grows in so many regions, is easy to find during this mid-Spring season.  Just make sure to forage away from major roads or dog-walking paths and, as always, to take only what you need.

Happy foraging and happy feasting!

dandelionsaladLardon, Egg + Dandelion Green Salad

Stone Sauce:

  • 1 teaspoon mustard
  • 1 teaspoon cenovis (marmite could be used in its place or it could be omitted altogether)
  • 6 tablespoons olive oil
  • 3 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
  • 1/2 shallot, minced
  • 4 sprigs parsley, minced
  • pinch salt
  1. Add ingredients to a glass jar.  Cover with lid and shake until emulsified.

Salad:

  • two handfuls dandelion greens
  • 50gs lardons
  • 2 eggs from pasture-fed hens
  1. Add greens to big bowl.  Cover with cold water and splash of vinegar.  Let sit.
  2. Meanwhile, put eggs in a small, lidded pot.  Cover with cold water and put on stove to boil.  Once boiling, turn off heat and cover with lid.  Let sit for 3-4 minutes.  Spoon eggs out immediately into small bowl of cold water.
  3. Add lardons to cast-iron pan.  Cook on medium heat for 3-4 minutes, until crisp.
  4. Swish greens around and drain water.  Refill and swish and drain until water runs clear.  Use a salad spinner, or pat to dry.  Add to salad bowl.
  5. Add lardons to salad bowl.
  6. Take eggs from small bowl and peel.  Arrange on top of lardons and greens.
  7. Pour over dressing, mix and serve.

Filed Under: Animal, Dinner, Egg, Lunch, Meat Monday, Recipes, Seasons, Spring Tagged With: dandelion greens, dinner, lunch, salad, spring, suisse

  • « Previous Page
  • 1
  • 2

Copyright © 2025 · The Soaked Bean